September is one of the most enjoyable months for a stay on Lake Como. It is the ideal time to combine walks along the waterfront, boat trips and days spent discovering the traditions of the nearby valleys.

One event not to miss is the Chiavenna Crotti Festival, a celebration of food and culture that offers a fascinating introduction to one of Valchiavenna’s most authentic traditions. During the festival you can visit the traditional crotti, which are explained below, taste local specialities and join the “Andèm a Cròt” trails.

For anyone staying in Bellano or Varenna, the Crotti Festival can become the centrepiece of a full day immersed in local tradition between lake and mountains. Set off in the morning along the eastern shore of Lake Como, travel to Chiavenna via Colico and, after visiting the crotti and tasting the local specialities, return to the lake in the late afternoon.

What is the Chiavenna Crotti Festival?

The Crotti Festival is a recurring celebration of Valchiavenna’s culture, food and convivial spirit. It began in 1956 with the aim of promoting the crotti and preserving their history. Over time, it has become one of the best-known traditional events in the province of Sondrio. The festival takes place every year, generally during the first weekends of September. Exact dates, trails, menus, prices and booking arrangements may change from one edition to the next. Before planning your visit, it is therefore important to check the latest programme published by the organisers.

What are the crotti of Chiavenna?

To understand the spirit of the festival, you first need to meet its true protagonists. A crotto is not simply a cellar, nor is it merely a restaurant built into the rock. It is a distinctive feature of Valchiavenna, developed beside natural cavities among the rocks. The defining element of a crotto is the “sorel”, a current of cool air that maintains a fairly constant temperature throughout the year, usually between 4 and 8°C. Before modern refrigeration, this natural feature was used to store wine, cheese, cured meats and other foods. Cured meat and cheese matured in a crotto develop a different flavour: try them and you may be surprised.

Rooms with tables, benches and spaces for gathering were built beside these cavities. The crotto was therefore not only a place for preserving food. It was also somewhere to meet, share a meal and spend time together.

From Lake Como to Valchiavenna

One reason to visit the Crotti Festival while staying in Bellano or Varenna is the changing landscape along the way. In a single day, you move from villages overlooking the water to woods, rocks and mountain houses. There is no need for a long journey to discover a different area that remains deeply connected to the lake.

Bellano is an especially convenient base for this experience. As well as offering straightforward access to Chiavenna via Colico, it allows you to devote the other days of your stay to Varenna, panoramic walking trails, boat trips and the small villages of the eastern shore.

It is best to set aside a full day for Valchiavenna. The festival is more enjoyable when you are not worried about returning too early or trying to fit too many visits into the same itinerary.

The “Andèm a Cròt” trails

One of the most engaging ways to experience the Crotti Festival is to join an “Andèm a Cròt” trail. Its name means “let’s go to the crotto” and refers to food itineraries linking different crotti, villages and characteristic corners of Valchiavenna. Participants move from one stop to the next along a set route. A course or tasting is served at each location, turning the meal into a travelling experience.

The rhythm is simple: you walk, reach a crotto, sit down together, taste a dish and then set off again. Food becomes the thread that guides you through the valley and its traditions.

The “Andèm a Cròt” trails may change each year in duration, length, difficulty, menu and starting point. Some itineraries take place entirely on foot, while individual editions may offer different formats. Visit the dedicated website to check the trail details, departure and finish times, and the planned menu.

Do you need to book the Crotti Festival?

How you take part in the festival depends on the experience you choose. The “Andèm a Cròt” trails normally have set places and departure times, and advance booking may be required. The most popular itineraries and times can sell out quickly. During the festival, some privately owned crotti that are not usually accessible may also open to the public.

What can you eat at the Crotti Festival?

Menus vary according to the crotto, the trail and the edition, but the food remains closely tied to Valchiavenna tradition: Chiavenna-style buckwheat dumplings, polenta, local cheeses and cured meats, meat and sausages, rustic desserts, wine and grappa.

Different ways to experience the Crotti Festival

The “Andèm a Cròt” trails are ideal for visitors who want to walk, explore several places and turn lunch or dinner into an itinerary. They do, however, require more organisation and may involve a schedule that must be followed.

Visiting the open crotti is better suited to anyone who prefers a more flexible day. During the festival, spaces that are normally inaccessible may open their doors, offering a special opportunity to see their structure and understand their purpose.

There is no single best choice. It all depends on how much time you have, how far you would like to walk and the kind of experience you want.

How to reach Chiavenna from Bellano

From Bellano and the eastern shore of Lake Como, Chiavenna is reached via Colico. A car gives you more freedom, but the train is a practical alternative for reaching the centre of Chiavenna without worrying about parking. Depending on the service you choose, you may need to change trains at Colico.

What to wear when visiting the crotti

Even when the weather on Lake Como is still mild, September temperatures can change quickly between daytime and evening. The sorel also keeps the crotti particularly cool. Comfortable shoes and a light jacket or sweatshirt are recommended. Some routes cross roads, paths or uneven surfaces, so suitable footwear is important even on itineraries considered easy.

What to see in and around Chiavenna

If your food trail begins in the afternoon, it is worth arriving early for a walk through Chiavenna’s historic centre. The squares, bridges over the River Mera, elegant façades and pedestrian streets tell the story of an Alpine town that served for centuries as a crossroads between different regions. Nearby attractions include Piuro, the Acquafraggia Waterfalls, the Parco delle Marmitte dei Giganti and Palazzo Vertemate Franchi.

It is best not to fit all these visits into the day of the festival. A trail through the crotti can take several hours and deserves to be enjoyed without rushing. The other places can become the destination for a second excursion during your stay on Lake Como.

Why stay on Lake Como in September?

Visiting the Crotti Festival from Lake Como allows you to create a richer and more varied trip. One day can be devoted to Valchiavenna, while the others can be reserved for Bellano, Varenna, the lake’s villas, boat trips and panoramic walks. In this way, your stay brings together lakeside scenery, mountains, food and traditional events.

Local festivals also add something that cannot be found simply by admiring the view. They offer opportunities to meet people, hear the local dialect, taste traditional recipes and discover the relationship between the community and its surroundings.

To experience the authenticity of September traditions without giving up the beauty of Lake Como, I recommend staying in Bellano in a Villa Vista Lago apartment and making the Crotti Festival one of the most genuine days of your holiday.