A three-day Lake Como itinerary with Varenna as your base: what to see, how to get around and where to be pleasantly surprised

Introduction

There are places that don’t need to be understood: you simply arrive, pause for a moment, and let the rhythm of the water carry you. Lake Como is one of them. And if you choose to spend three days on the Lario with Varenna as your base, you quickly realise everything here feels ready to welcome you: boats arriving on time, quiet lanes scented with rain-dark stone, warm-coloured houses cascading down towards the harbour.

Varenna is the perfect place to explore the lake without a car—in fact, it’s precisely car-free that Lake Como shows its best side. You move across the water, glide into villages over the blue, and leave behind every thought of parking, traffic and narrow roads.

What follows is a real itinerary, built step by step the way someone would tell it who lives this lake every day. Three full days, but never rushed—rich in viewpoints, gardens, historic villas and slow walks. Lake Como, properly lived.

Day 1 – Varenna, Villa Monastero and Castello di Vezio

Waking up on the lake and the Lovers’ Walk

Mornings in Varenna have their own sound. Before the sun rises over the mountains on the Lecco branch, the water is smooth as glass. It’s the perfect time for a walk along the Lovers’ Walk, that red lakeside promenade following the curve of the shore and gifting you reflections and calm.

Varenna’s beauty isn’t loud—it’s discreet and intimate, made of unexpected corners. Wandering towards the old town you’ll come across the Church of San Giorgio, simple and solid, typical of the region’s Romanesque architecture. For a few minutes, it even feels as if time has stopped.

Villa Monastero: the garden that slips into the water

A few minutes further on, following the lakeside, you reach the entrance to Villa Monastero. It’s not a place you forget easily. The botanical garden stretches along the shore like a green ribbon: palms, citrus trees, white statues looking out over the water, and that unmistakable Lake Como light that changes with every step.

The most atmospheric spot? The loggia with columns framing the lake—somewhere to pause, even just to listen to the wind.

The climb up to Castello di Vezio

In the afternoon, when the light turns slightly softer and slants across the hillside, it’s time to start the walk up to Castello di Vezio. The path begins from the centre and climbs through olive trees, dry-stone walls and gentle switchbacks. It’s a short climb, but just steep enough to make you feel part of the landscape.

Once at the top, the view is one of those panoramas that speaks for itself: the triangle of water between Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio, the blue opening out between mountains, and the castle’s quiet stillness.

Back down and dinner with a lake view

Evenings fall early between Varenna’s houses, but the lake stays bright for a long time. The lakeside restaurants and trattorias are perfect for ending the day with something local: perch risotto, or the more traditional missoltini.

Day 2 – Bellagio, the “pearl of the lake”, and the gardens of Villa Melzi

Reaching Bellagio without a car: a tiny daily cruise

From Varenna to Bellagio it’s just 15 minutes by boat, but that quarter of an hour is a journey within the journey. The water opens into wide fans, and as the boat moves forward you understand why Bellagio is called “the pearl of the lake”. Arriving by water is the most beautiful way.

Bellagio and its climbs

You don’t simply visit Bellagio—you discover it. Start from the lakeside, scented with exotic plants, then climb the stone stairways weaving past little shops, flowered balconies and views that look like they’ve stepped out of an old painting. It’s elegant without being showy, best enjoyed slowly.

An afternoon in the park of Villa Melzi

A short walk south brings you into one of the Lario’s jewels: Villa Melzi. Its English-style gardens are a succession of camellias, cedars and lake views that feel made for photography. Everything here invites you to slow down.

Sunset and the return to Varenna

The boat back gives you one last scene: Varenna lighting up, pastel houses mirrored on the water. It’s one of those moments that stays with you.

Day 3 – Menaggio and the Abbey of Piona: a quieter side of the lake

Menaggio: lakeside elegance

In the morning you set off from Varenna’s pier again, this time towards Menaggio. The crossing takes 15 minutes and the scenery changes completely: here the lake widens, the mountains soften, and the feel is almost Mediterranean.

Menaggio is an elegant village, with a long, well-kept promenade. Perfect for an unhurried stroll or a coffee with a view. If you fancy a bit of walking, I recommend the path up towards Loveno, climbing to the higher hamlets and rewarding you with lovely viewpoints.

The stillness of the Abbey of Piona

In the afternoon, head towards a calmer corner of the lake: the Abbey of Piona, on the Colico branch. The atmosphere shifts here—softer light, calmer waters, deep silence. The Romanesque cloister is precious in its simplicity, and the monks’ products are a small final treat.

Back to Varenna and one last look at the lake

You return to Varenna by boat, with the sun dropping behind the mountains and the lake turning gold. It’s the perfect way to close three days that are full yet light, lived to the rhythm of the water.

Practical tips for getting around without a car

• Varenna is the best choice: frequent trains from Milan and regular boats to Bellagio and Menaggio.
• Boats and ferries: reliable, punctual and wonderfully scenic.
• Comfortable shoes: the villages have plenty of steps.
• Navigazione Lago di Como app: very useful for timetables and updates.
• Travel light: the lake is best experienced on foot.

Conclusion

Three days on Lake Como, based in Varenna and without a car, lets you enjoy an authentic experience. It’s a simple, slow and surprisingly rich trip. And for your stay, I’d suggest choosing Varenna or Bellano, in a Villa Vista Lago apartment (www.villavistalago.it).