Pesa Vegia in Bellano: the festival of festivals on Lake Como

The name Pesa Vegia literally means “old scales”. It refers to a historical episode from 1605, when the Spanish Governor Pedro Acevedo, Count of Fuentes, issued a decree restoring the old units of measure, overturning a recent reform.

Bellano’s merchants—then deeply involved in trade on the lake—strongly opposed the new system (“pesa nova”), which they considered unfair to local business. The protest was so widely supported that the good news was celebrated with a collective festivity—one that, over the centuries, became the major event you see today.

Pesa Vegia has endured wars, hardship and even the pandemic: every year, the village comes together to bring this piece of its identity back to life.

The event began as a historical reenactment connected to weights and measures, but over time it has grown into a wider celebration that weaves together:

• - costumes, pages, the governor, nobles and characters from the past
• - the “Pese” race through the village streets
• - the procession of the Three Kings
• - the reading of the edict from the Town Hall balcony
• - a living nativity and staged scenes
• - a large bonfire on the lake pier to close the evening
• - you can purchase a pass to visit all the day’s attractions

The living nativity

The afternoon opens with scenes, historical characters and the living nativity: Mary, Joseph, the ox, the donkey and the Kings approaching with gifts. Children can step closer to the stable and often receive sweets or candies, as local tradition suggests.

The “Pese” race

One of the most distinctive—and spectacular—parts is the “Pese” race through the village: pulled along to recall the pivotal episode of 1605.

The Spanish delegation arrives at the pier

One of the most striking scenes is the arrival of the Spanish delegation and the Governor on the gondola coach “La Lucia”. Along the shoreline, people cry out at the top of their lungs: “Pesa vegia or pesa nova?” Which answer will come back?

The reading of the edict

From the Town Hall balcony, the “Benevolent Ordinance” is read—the 17th-century decree that restored the old system of weights. It’s one of the most anticipated moments, met with applause and joyful shouts of “Pesa Vegia!”, a collective cry of participation.

The historic procession

The procession takes shape, led by costumed figures who reenact the historical protest. The Three Kings walk through the lanes of the village accompanied by music, performers, drums and colourful banners.

The bonfire on the pier and fireworks

The evening culminates with a large bonfire on the lake pier: flames, laughter, shared warmth, and your gaze drifting across the reflections on the Lario. It’s the moment when sacred and secular meet under Bellano’s winter sky—often with fireworks as well.

A tradition that doesn’t fear rain

In 2024, despite bad weather and rain, thousands of people still took part in Pesa Vegia—another sign of how deeply rooted it is in the community.

The role of the “Moretti”

Part of the traditional celebration is the “Moretti” procession: groups of performers who, for over thirty years, have brought colour, masks and a tradition passed down from generation to generation.

An artistic revival

Bellano recently hosted the initiative “Avanti la Stella – Momenti di Pesa”, an open-air gallery displaying images of Pesa Vegia on walls and shop windows throughout the village—celebrating the event’s identity beyond its 420+ years of history.

Morning and early afternoon

Arrive early in Bellano to explore the old village and the lakeside, and visit the Orrido: on Pesa Vegia days it can host scenes or stations of the living nativity.

A local winter lunch

Local restaurants offer seasonal set menus. It’s the perfect time to try hearty Lake Como winter dishes: polenta, lake fish and traditional sweets. (Booking ahead is recommended on festival days.)

An afternoon of celebrations

Towards late afternoon, the historic procession begins. Every street comes alive—music and performers filling the air. You can visit King Herod’s court, the Living Nativity, the Medieval Village and the typical historical settings.

Evening: edict, bonfire and fireworks

The edict reading and the large bonfire on the lake pier are true goosebump moments for visitors and locals alike.

Pesa Vegia is far more than a historical reenactment: it’s Bellano’s spirit expressed through a festival that connects past and present.

“Pesa Vegia isn’t something you simply tell—it's something you live.”

Wear comfortable shoes and arrive early. The festival draws thousands of people every year, and free shuttle services are organised from nearby Varenna and Dervio.