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If you’re looking for a truly local event (not staged for visitors, but genuinely lived by the people who call this place home), the San Giovanni celebration on Isola Comacina is a perfect choice. And if you want to enjoy it without stress, there’s one simple tip I always give: arrive by boat — ideally from Varenna — because at that time of day, the road network shows no mercy.
When? The weekend closest to 24 June
Where? In the municipality of Tremezzina (Ossuccio)
Isola Comacina is the only island on Lake Como, and even on an ordinary day it has a particular charm: short paths, Mediterranean greenery, ancient ruins and a sense of quiet. But on San Giovanni night, everything shifts.
This isn’t “just fireworks”. It’s a tradition rooted in old episodes linked to the island and the surrounding area: fire becomes symbol, memory, a shared story. In the dark, the island turns into a natural stage. The water is the auditorium. The mountains become the grandstands.
As evening falls, the same thing happens every time: people speak a little less, boats take their positions, and everyone’s gaze drifts in the same direction. Then the San Giovanni fireworks begin: they burst above the island’s dark outline and multiply in the reflections on the water.
That’s exactly what makes it special: it isn’t a show “in the sky”, it’s a show between sky, island and lake. If you’re close (or on a boat), the reflection becomes part of the scene. Even people who’ve seen countless fireworks usually end up falling silent here. San Giovanni on Isola Comacina is one of the oldest and most evocative events on Lake Como, famous for its dramatic re-enactment of the 1169 destruction that turns the island into a glowing “bonfire”.
Local tip: if you really want to feel the atmosphere, try not to look at your phone for the first two minutes. Wait. Let the lake do its part.
Before the display, the celebration is very much on land too: long tables, music, aromas, laughter. That’s where the “Lumaghitt” tradition comes in — the most convivial part of the evening. The “lumaghitt” (little snails in the local dialect) aren’t “a quirky dish”: they’re the small floating lanterns traditionally used during the San Giovanni festivities on Lake Como, placed on the water and along the shores to create a magical illuminated scene, especially around Isola Comacina.
If you arrive in the afternoon, you’ll enjoy the best rhythm: a stroll along the lakefront, an early dinner, and then choosing your spot for the fireworks. For ideas, see where to eat well in Bellano and Varenna. It’s a slower pace — the kind that feels like summer on Lake Como when you do it properly.
Let’s be honest: on nights like this, the Tremezzina area draws huge crowds and road logistics become complicated (full car parks, heavy traffic, unpredictable timing). That’s why the best solution is the most “Larian” one: arriving by water. If you want broader tips, read how to get around Lake Como and avoid long waits.
On the evening of the event, the recommended choice is the special service organised by Navigazione Lago di Como (Navigazione Laghi). For context — and a bit of romance — you might enjoy boats and steamboats on Lake Como: history, curiosities and tips. And if you’re picking a smart departure point, Varenna is ideal: you can reach it easily by train, walk to the pier, and leave the whole “car and parking” problem behind. If you decide to stay near Varenna, it’s the most convenient solution, but Bellano and neighbouring villages work well too.
Important note: you must book in advance (or, at the very least, follow the official instructions early). Demand on fireworks night is extremely high and places sell out quickly. For tickets, timetables and live updates, always refer to Navigazione Laghi’s official website.
If you’re not on a boat, that’s absolutely fine — you can still enjoy the show from land. The most natural areas to watch are the shores directly facing the island, around Ossuccio and Sala Comacina, where you have Isola Comacina right in front of you and a clear view of the reflection on the lake.
Local tip: choose your spot by late afternoon. After that, it fills up. And if you want to be comfortable, it’s better to stand a little back with a clean sightline than to squeeze into the “front row” with no space.
It’s usually held in late June, on the weekend closest to 24 June. Dates can vary each year, so always check official updates for the event and transport.
The easiest option is to arrive by boat, avoiding traffic and parking. Departing from Varenna is a particularly practical choice thanks to rail connections and easy access to the pier.
Yes. Demand on fireworks night is extremely high, and booking/organising ahead is essential to avoid being left on shore. Always check the official instructions and availability.
Watching from land is simpler and free if you find a good spot. From a boat it’s more immersive: you’re right inside the lake’s natural “theatre”, and the reflection on the water becomes part of the show.
They’re the small floating lanterns traditionally used during the San Giovanni festivities on Lake Como, placed on the water and along the shores to create a magical illuminated scene around Isola Comacina.
It varies by edition, but it’s typically a concentrated evening event. For the exact time, rely on official notices and the updated programme.
There’s a moment people don’t always talk about: what happens after. When the last bang fades, there’s a brief, almost respectful silence. Boats move slowly, the shores empty out little by little, and the lake is left with a light scent of smoke and summer.
That’s why San Giovanni on Lake Como isn’t “just something to see” — here, it’s something to live. And if you do it the right way — arriving early, having dinner calmly, choosing the water as your route — you’ll take away a clean, bright memory.
And for your stay, I’d suggest basing yourself in Varenna or Bellano in a Villa Vista Lago apartment (www.villavistalago.it). If you want to plan a longer trip, here’s a helpful read: a three-day Lake Como itinerary based in Varenna (car-free).